If you read the information on the home page, then you'll know why I think this page is the heart of this web site. Scroll down the page (sorry I could not add a hyperlink to text on this page) to see tips from one of the following categories:
1. Before Getting Started
2. General Construction Tips
4. Wing Building Tips 3. Empennage Building Tips
Note that I will add sections for the Fuselage, Engine, Finishing Kit, Panel, Interior, and other major groups of tasks as I get to them.
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Some thoughts, ideas, and things to do before you call Van's and place your order.
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Do a Lot of Web Surfing - Odds are if you are reading this, you have already been to the Van's web site and their links page. There you will find several really good builder sites that can help you gain a good understanding of what is required to construct a Van's RV. Many of these sites contain links to sites for parts suppliers and other really good resources.
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Take a Class - Although I have a mechanical engineering degree from the University of Michigan and spend a lot of time building things, I had never worked with sheet metal to any great extent. So I took the sheet metal class offered throught EAA and found it to be very helpful. It gave me a good feel for the tools that are unique to working with sheet metal. Another option is to find another builder in your area and spend some time watching/working with them on their airplane.
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Practice, Practice, Practice - It had been a year and a half or so from the time I took the sheet metal class until the time I purchased my tools. In order to refreash my metal working skills and try out the new tools I had purchased, I ordered the Van's practice kit and worked on it with my 13 year old daughter. This was very helpful as it gave me a chance to learn how best to configure and adjust the new tools for the best results. I figure it will also give me a platform for trying out tools (like a rivet removal tool) prior to using them on the actual kit components.
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Find Local Builders - This is one tip that I have not yet taken advantage of, but I plan to do so very soon. My goal is to get to know a few local RV builders (and non-RV builders). A couple ways I have attempted to do this is to join the local EAA Chaper and get the list of local builders from Van's. My local EAA Chapter (Chapter 186) publishes a great directory of our members, their contact informaiton, and what aircraft they are building, have built, and/or own.
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General Construction Tips
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The following are some suggestions, thoughts, and ideas, the apply to more than one phase of the construction process. As you can see from the dates, I've listed my most recent additions at the top.
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Riveting - Support the Piece Being Worked On,
2/28/07 - By
this point of the project I have done a fair amount of riveting, both
squeezing and with a rivet gun/set. I have noticed that it is very
important to apply a good amount of pressure against the rivet
head/component being riveted when using ethe rivet gun/set. If you
don't, the rivet set is likely to slip and you'll dent the aluminum
with the preverbial smilie ")". In
order to apply adequate pressure, you will need to make sure the
component being riveted is firmly supported and held in place. I have
made significant use of the HS jigs when riveting both the VS and the
Rudder.
LEARNING: In order to minimize the risk of a smilie ")", make sure that you have the component well
supported so that you can hold the rivet set firmly against the surface.
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No. 41 Drill Bits, 8/16/06 - I
have noticed that if you follow the standard process for hole prep
(drill to #40, "lightly debur," and dimple) that the rivet is not snug
in the hole. The dimpling actually stretches the aluminum and opens
the hole leaving the rivet somewhat loose.
I
went to far as to perform a quick test. I took 2 pcs of scrap,
drilled, deburred, dimpled both pcs, and riveted them together. I then
cut through the center of the deformed rivet so as to have a
crossection of the riveted area. I cleaned it up with some sandpaper
and a Scotch Brite pad. Looking at the crossection under a magnifying
glass, I could see that the rivet deformed to the point where is pretty
much filled in all of the space and minor voids created by drilling and
dimpling vs dimpling & drilling.
However,
with that being said. I took the advise of an RV-4 builder and moved
up to a #41 drill bite (#40 = 0.098" #41 = 0.096"). This makes a
noticable difference and leaves a nice tight dimpled hole.
LEARNING: Order #41 drill bits and use them whenever you would use a #40 and dimple.
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Deburring & A Scotch Brite Wheel, 8/16/06 - I
have been doing a lot, and I mean a lot, of edge finishing. I have
been using a file to round corners, 120 Emory cloth, followed by a
Scotch Brite pad. All by hand. The edges are as smooth as a baby's
bottom. I'm sure that I am doing more than I probably need to, but I
feel that stress risers and crack propegation is the most likely longer
term problem with aluminum airplanes.
For
some time now, I've been thinking of getting a Scotch Brite wheel.
Recently, I was talking with an RV4 builder who told me, in a polite
way, that I was stupid for doing all of the deburring by hand and that
I needed to buy a SB wheel. He even gave me a little demo using the SB
wheel in his hanger. So I bought a Ryobi ginder from Home Depot,
removed the wheel housing from it, and ordered a SB Wheel. I've been
told that a single wheel can get you through an entire airplane.
Well, I've added the SB wheel to my arsinal of metal finishing tools. I'm actually mixed.
It definately helps, but IMHO, there is no substitution for hand finishing.
LEARNING: It's worthwhile to invest in a Scotch Brite wheel, but it's
not the be all to end all.
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Latex Gloves help Keep Your Hands Clean, 4/5/06 -You quickly learn that there is a lot of deburring, sanding, and scotch
briting required to get the parts ready for priming and/or assembly. This can lead to your hands becoming rather gray/black from the aluminum dust. I have found that latex gloves
come in real handy.
LEARNING: A box of 100 latex gloves for $8 from Home Depot is a worthwhile
investment.
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Band Saw Blades, 1/7/06 - One
of the tools that I purchased was a low end band saw from SEARS. I
comes with a 6 Teeth Per Inch blade. I purchased a few extra blades, a
15 TPI and an 18 TPI thinking that the 6TPI blade would result in too
rough of a cut. As it turned out, the new blades didn't cut very well
at all. So I put the 6 TPI blade back on and it cut through the
aluminum attach angle stock much more easily. I was discussing this
with a buddy at work, and he has had the same experience. This is
generally contrary to what is supposed to happen. I have one other
theory as to why this may be but it would take too long to explain it
here.
LEARNING: The 6 TPI blade works just fine for cutting the aluminum angle!
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These are things I would pass along to other builders if they were in the process of building their wings.
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Nothing Posted Yet, 3/20/09 - I've been working on redoing and transferring the web site content from a Verizon platform (Free but no support and a crappy web builder tool) to Network Solutions (Not Free, better, but still not real easy to work with). Therefore, my effort has simply gone into the converting the site and not much more. I'm sure I'll come up with something soon though. In the meantime, I thought I would simply post another photo to the right.
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These are things I found to be helpful while working on the tail kit.
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HS or VS First, 4/24/06 - I
have read where several builders have commented that the VS was easier
to build than the HS and that new builders should start with the VS
instead of the HS as presented in the Vans instructions. Here are my
thoughts (that is if you care what I think).
I would suggest starting with the HS for the following 2 reasons. One,
the instructions provided for building the HS are much more detailed
than those of the VS. I am guessing that Van's does this purposely to
help new builders gain confidence. The amount of detail on the VS
instructions is considerably less. Therefore, if you were to start
with the VS instead of the HS you may not have as much
comfort with what you are doing. This is not a big deal, but it could
make a difference for some new builders. Second, new builders are
eager to get started and have more motivation. Therefore, start with a
more time consuming component when you are highly motivated and each
new step is a new learning process and more interesting. After I
finished the HS, I felt like the VS was a piece of cake!
LEARNING: Admittedly, these observation are not at all earth
shattering. Just my 2 cents worth on the topic.
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HS Building Support, 1/29/06 - I'm
not sure how many Builders have built an H shaped building support for
the tail kit, however, I did and I think it was worthwhile. It seems
that many/most Builders use a workbench for constructing the tail kit.
Although I'm sure this would be fine, I have found that the
"narrowness" provided by the H shaped building support makes it easier
to work close to the assembly. If you are interested in building an H
support, send me an email and I'll pass along how I designed the
supports (picture right), I am very pleased with the way they turned
out.
LEARNING:
It's easier to keep a 9' long assembly stationary, and for the Builder
to move around it, vs moving the assembly to accomodate the space that
is accessible to the Builder!
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